PREDICTION MODELS CORRELATING PERFORMANCE OF SPORT ROCK CLIMBERS

R. Slaugh, M. Hyder, and J. Abendroth-Smith
Utah State University
Logan, UT 84322-7000

INTRODUCTION

It is often said that rock climbers do not have to be strong to be good at climbing. However, elite climbers are often identified by their muscular upper bodies, their effortless motion and their trim physiques. Rock climbing has entered the realm of mainstream sport and recreation, with events ranging from indoor rock climbing competitions to organized outdoor high and low adventure courses. The development of prediction models correlating strength, anthropometric and technique characteristics of both men and women rock climbers would allow training principals to be developed which are custom tailored to enhance these desired characteristics.

REVIEW AND THEORY

Strength assessments and the analysis of kinematic characteristics have been examined in a limited number of rock climbers recently (Abendroth-Smith & Slaugh, 1997). However, a need exists to expand upon the number of climbers tested, as well as to develop prediction models for men and women to better assess the characteristics of climbers. These models, in turn could be used for the purpose of identifying specific training techniques, evaluating the effectiveness of training, and for prediction of success in the sport.

The purpose of this study was to identify common anthropometric, strength and kinematic movement characteristics as related to redpoint, a performance measure of climbing skill, among men and women sport rock climbers and to develop prediction models for use in training and for more success in the sport.

PROCEDURES

Participants in this study were 52 moderate to elite level sport rock climbers, mostly residing in the northern Utah area. The subjects included 26 females and 26 males. All subjects signed informed consents and IRB approval was obtained. The women ranged in age from 18-41 years with reported redpoint performance levels ranging from 5.7 to 5.12c/d while the men ranged in age from 18-45 years with reported redpoint levels from 5.7 to 5.13d. Redpoint (RP) is a skill rating of climbing difficulty, and ranges from 5.1 to 5.14c in the United States. Information concerning the subject's gender, age, and experience in climbing were recorded to develop a profile of the climber.

Movement characteristics of the participants performing the same simulated rock climbing movement were analyzed using a 2D Video Motion Measurement System. Data were collected at a rate of 30 Hz, and filtered at a 7 Hz cut-off rate using a low pass Butterworth type filter. The variables analyzed included peak velocity and acceleration of the center of gravity (COG), absolute angular trunk displacement, peak velocity of left wrist movement, peak absolute angular acceleration of the left forearm and the timing of the events listed.

The anthropometric measurements taken included weight, body fat (BF), height (HT), arm wingspan (WS), flexibility (two leg sit and reach), and ape index (wingspan - height). Strength measures included grip strength (GR), lat pull down (LAT) and an isometric flexed arm hang (1 or 2 arm). Hang times were calculated as an impulse using the subject's mass. Isometric abdominal flexion strength was measured as impulse. Means and SD were used to examine differences between the men and women, and multiple regression equations were used to examine relationships between the measured variables and the performance criterion of redpoint for the two gender groups as well as for all climbers together.

RESULTS

The results examining the kinematic variables were computed for the men and women as separate groups. Center of gravity peak vertical velocity (COGVy) averaged 4.3 m/s for both genders (SD of ± 1.0 for women and ± 1.2 for men). Timing of COGVy occurred at an average of 2.7 ± 0.87 frames for the women and at 3.5 ± 1.7 frames for the men. Peak vertical velocity of the left wrist (LWVy) was 12.2 m/s for both genders alike, with SD's of ± 1.4 for the women and ± 0.85 for the men. Left forearm peak angular acceleration (LFAA) was 20.9 ± 15.8 m/s/s for the women and 24.2 ± 17.3 m/s/s. Of the anthropometric measurements, the greatest variability between gender was for flexibility. The women averaged a score of 14.7 ± 15.1 cm and the males of 8.2 ± 9.1. The strength measures indicated the women had an averaged normalized grip strength of 0.79 ± 0.2, with this result being 0.09 higher than the men. The women averaged 0.79 ± 0.2 on the normalized lat pull down and men 1.10 ± 0.2. In the vertical jump the women averaged 41 ± 11.0 cm while men averaged only 1.0 ± 15.0 cm higher. Means for selected variables are shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1. Means for selected variables between men and women (variable unit are given in the text).

The individual prediction model for redpoint (RP) on anthropometrics indicated for women the best model to be RP = -bodyfat - height (R = .44), for the men RP = -bodyfat + flexibility + wingspan (R =.6), and overall RP = -bodyfat + wingspan (R = .65). The prediction models for the strength variables provided the best explanation for women to be RP = hang + vertical jump (R = .73), the men RP = grip + hang (R = .7), and overall RP = hang + grip + lats (R = .72). The kinematic variables that produced the best prediction models for the women were RP = COGVy + LFAA (R = .41), for the men RP = timing LFAA + timing LWVy (R = .36), and overall RP = COGVy + LWVy + LFAA + timing LFAA - timing COGVy (R = .53). The composite prediction models included the best variable from each set and are presented in Table 1.

DISCUSSION

One outcome of this study is that rock climbers are required to possess varying characteristics. Overall climbing technique requires accurate timing of the movement which, by the negative correlation, would indicate patience in choosing the correct motion, and fast decisive movement of the dynamic appendage (LFAA & LWVy) with hesitation being detrimental. The grip strength, arm hang, and lat pulldown strength relationship to redpoint were expected and indicate the predominance of these upper body muscle groups in climbing. The negative relationship with body fat is explained as the one force that climbers must overcome to succeed is directly related to the weight of the climber.

The noted differences in gender included the women indicating the importance of leg strength, with the peak velocities and accelerations perhaps resulting from the greater leg strength. The negative relationship to height is attributed to the lesser relative upper-body strength exhibited, which would be detrimental with longer appendages, by requiring greater torques at the point of contact. The men's results indicate the importance of the upper-body strength which manifested itself in the differences in technique and timing, and incorporates the characteristic of flexibility to achieve the gymnastic- like body positions required in difficult sport climbing.

Table 1. Correlations and adjusted R(s of Composite Prediction Models to the Performance Criterion of Redpoint.

Variables R R 2 adj
Women RP=-BF+Hang+COGVy .77 .59
Men RP= -BF+Hang+LWVy .71 .43
Overall RP=-BF+Hang+Grip+LFAA +LWVy-timing COGVy .82 .61

Practical applications of this study would include resistance training (conventional or climbing specific) tailored to gender, and technique training focusing on timing and speed of movement.

REFERENCES

Abendroth-Smith, J. & Slaugh. R. Proceedings of 20th ASB Annual Meeting. pp. 272-273, 1997.