Reliability of Peak Forces During a Finger Curl Motion Common in Rock Climbing

Phillip B. Watts and Randall L. Jensen

Department of Health, Physical Education and Recreation
Northern Michigan University

MEASUREMENT IN PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND EXERCISE SCIENCE, 7(4), 263–267

This study was designed to examine the reliability of peak finger force during 4-finger curling in a sample of expert level young competitive rock climbers. The participants(N = 31; 16 boys, 15 girls; 13.0 ± 2.7 years of age) completed 2 maximal finger curls with each hand. Finger force was measured via a piezoelectric force sensor fitted with a plate to accept the first digits of the 4 fingers. Force was applied to the plate/sensor by the fingers via a 3-sec maximal contraction. Reliability of the finger curl for each hand was estimated using a one-way repeated measure analysis of variance(ANOVA) and intraclass test–retest correlation. Reliability of the measurement for the left hand was estimated at R = .947 (.95 confidence interval, .891–.975). Reliability for the right hand was estimated at R = .902 (.95 confidence interval, .796–.953). No significant ( p > .05) differences were found between the 2 trials for either hand. Peak force measurement during maximal finger curls using this protocol and population was judged to be reliable.