Pre-performance psychological states and performance in an elite climbing competition

Scand J Med Sci Sports 2009
doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0838.2009.00904.x

X. Sanchez1, M. S. J. Boschker2, D. J. Llewellyn3

1Department of Sport and Exercise Sciences, University of Chester, Chester, UK, 2HAN University, The Netherlands, 3University of
Cambridge, Cambridge, UK

Accepted for publication 9 December 2008

The purpose of the present study was to assess the relationship between pre-performance psychological states and expert performance in non-traditional sport competition.Nineteen elite male sport climbers (M524.6, SD54.0years of age) completed the Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2 and the Positive and Negative Affect Schedule before an international rock climbing competition. Climbing performances were video-recorded to calculate movement fluency (entropy) and obtain ascent times. Official route scores were also obtained. Successful climbers reported higher pre-performance levels of somatic anxiety and climbed the most difficult part of the route more slowly than their unsuccessful counterparts. The psychological states preceding elite climbing competition appeared to bean important factor in determining success, even when differences in baseline ability were taken into account.