Effect of an on-sight lead on the physiological and psychological responses to rock climbing

©Journal of Sports Science and Medicine (2008) 7, 492-498
http://www.jssm.org

Nick Draper, Glenys A. Jones , Simon Fryer, Chris Hodgson and Gavin Blackwell
School of Sciences and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, Canterbury, NZ

Centre for Sports Science and Medicine, University of Chichester, Chichester, West Sussex, UK

Abstract:
Rock climbing is a multi-discipline activity that encompasses
forms such as bouldering, top roping and lead climbing on
natural and artificial climbing surfaces. A major focus of re-
search has been explanation of physiological functioning. More
recent research indicates that anxiety levels are elevated for less
experienced climbers and in response to lead climbing ascents.
Research regarding the demands of rock climbing has placed a
lesser focus on the interaction of psychological and physiologi-
cal factors. The objective of this study was to examine the ef-
fects of an on-sight lead climb on the physiological and psycho-
logical demands of the climb in comparison with a subsequent
lead climb. Ten intermediate level climbers volunteered to
complete the two climbing trials, on-sight lead climb (OSLC)
and second lead climb (LC2). Climb time, lactate concentrations
(baseline, pre climb, post climb and 15 min post climb), heart
rate (1 min pre climb, peak HR, 1 min post climb and average
climb across the duration of the climb), oxygen consumption,
pre climb anxiety (CSAI-2R) were assessed for each climber for
both trials. Results indicated that there were significant differ-
ences in self reported pre climb somatic and cognitive anxiety
(t(9) = 2.79, p = 0.01, t(9) = 1.94, p = 0.043), climb time (t(9) =
3.07, p = 0.0052) and post climb lactate concentrations between
the climbs (t(9) = 2.58, p = 0.015). These results indicate that
psychological as well as physiological stress impact upon the
response to rock climbing. The higher anxiety levels associated
with an OSLC are likely to have influenced the physiological
responses for the intermediate climbers in this study. Future
studies should take into account the type of climbing, experience
of climbers and the number of ascents as well as taking into
account the interaction between physiological and psychological
factors in response to rock climbing.