Effect of a leg movement on the organisation of the forces at the holds in a climbing position 3-D kinetic analysis

Human Movement Science 16 (1997) 337-346

F. Quaine *, L. Martin, J.P. Blanchi

Luboratoire Sport et Motricite, E.A. 597 UFR.APS, Universitt Joseph Fourier, BP 53, 38041 Grenoble, France

Abstract:
This paper describes three-dimensional force data collected during postural shifts performed by individuals simulating rock climbing skills. Starting from a quadrupedal vertical posture, six expert climbers had to release their right footholds and maintain the posture for a few seconds. The analysis of the vertical and the horizontal forces (lateral and antero-posterior forces) applied on the holds was performed before, during and after the onset of the voluntary movement. The results show that the vertical and the horizontal force changes were initiated in synchrony at the same hold. Furthermore, the changes in the forces occurred before the release of the leg. Therefore, they were not a response to, but preparatory for postural change. The force variations were characterized by loadings of the vertical forces and by loadings and unloadings of the horizontal forces. This type of force variation on the holds and their timings seemed necessary to create the dynamic conditions for the onset of the voluntary movement and to counteract the perturbations due to this movement, which balanced the climber on the wall.