Climbing success is multifactorial, and sending requires many facets of biomotor abilities; power, strength, motor control, mobility, contact strength, and endurance. How an athlete incorporates climbing time with strength/power training is important for a couple of reasons. One, training methods interact…each biomotor ability affects the others. A campus board session is going to affect the ability to execute a powerful move. Two, the effects of fatigue accumulate as training continues. If the climber’s program design isn’t set up correctly, they won’t be able to recover and that will lead to poor performance or worse, injury.
The program design should determine the style of climbing; traditional, bouldering, routes or comps. Typically, Fall and Spring are the best times of year to send the hardest projects, so the design should account for that. What are the strengths and weaknesses of the individual and the relative needs of the style of climbing? Begin the program design with the most important biomotor ability, and integrate the other biomotor abilities around that one.