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Rock Climbing - Flexibility

About Climbing Flexibility

Static stretching, holding muscles at lengthened positions for 20-60 seconds has historically been performed during the warm-up portion of most climbers’ training. Recent research has shown that static stretching immediately prior to activity reduces performance. The reported reductions in performance have lasted over an hour following static stretching. Track and Field athletes no longer stretch this way prior to competition because of the reduction in movement speed. Static stretching reduces strength performance by lowering muscle activation as well as compromising the muscle’s ability to contract at the cellular level. While static stretching is beneficial to a climber, it should be performed AFTER your session. Dynamic mobility training as part of a comprehensive warm-up will not only save valuable climbing time but also improve performance. Understanding biomechanics, there is an exchange between motion and stability within the context of any movement. Skeletal muscle’s job is (in concert with tendons), to produce movement (motion) while protecting a joint from movement that is not within the individual’s normal range of motion (stability). Protecting this joint from excessive movement refers to uncontrolled motion that exceeds the natural limits of a joints capacity – result; injury. This natural mobility-stability exchange can be interrupted if statically held stretches are performed prior to a climbing session. Specifically, a warm-up must increase the temperature of the body and sport specific muscles to a certain level. Increase both respiration and blood flow as well as enhance neuromuscular activity thereby heightening coordination and movement ability – this must all be done to level at which the climber is not fatigued but prepared to move. Like elastic bands, muscles have an optimum length and strength that is developed over time. Consider extremes of this example, think of putting a rubber band in dry-ice for a few hours. When you pull it out and try to stretch it, what do you think will happen? It will break, as its fibers are not very elastic when cold. What about the converse? Imagine putting the same strength rubber band into warm water (not so hot that it melts). When you pull it out and try to stretch it, what happens now? It will stretch easily, but, will have virtually no potential energy because the fibers are long and relaxed, unable to provide the “snap” we associate with the band.
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