Elbow pain is one of the most common climber complaints. I have personally experience a good deal of pain on the inside of my elbow or medial epicondylitis due to overuse of the forearm flexor muscles. There is a variety of other muscles that attach at the elbow, including the biceps, brachioradialis, and triceps. The tendons that attach the muscles to the bone frequently don’t get proper recovery. Muscular imbalances ranging from the shoulder down through the forearm muscles can affect tendon syndromes like tendonitis or more commonly tendonosis.
“Pre-Habilitation” is the best way to avoid these maladies. Proper strengthening of the scapular retractors and shoulder girdle ensures stability and avoiding impingement. This is important as problems in the shoulder can refer to the elbow region. Having a progressive warm-up, dynamic range of motion exercise routine are important aspects prior to climbing. When finished with climbing, cooling-down and statically stretching helps the recovery process. If the climber has added strength training to their routine, is it too much volume or too much of an increase in intensity? Getting regular sports massage, and proper nutrition helps aid in recovery from intense or long sessions.