Blogs

EPICONDYLITIS

Epicondylitis is pain on the outside (lateral) or inside (medial) of your forearm, near the elbow. I have personally experienced this type of pain, both medial and lateral from 03' to 05'. For me, relief came from changing my bouldering habits; I needed to eliminate the mental aspect of maintaining "pump" as a training or "try hard" aspect. In addition, I started to get sport massage and use Compex EMS (electromuscular stimulation) to help. The final push was to take fish oil supplementation; whether this was/is psychosomatic doesn't matter as I feel like it helped and take it to this day.

THE PRINCIPLE OF POSTURE

THE PRINCIPLE OF POSTURE

This post is a follow up to the core strength development. The idea of improving your core strength for climbing should be based on athletic performance, not pool-side “Hollywood muscles." What are “Hollywood muscles?" Muscles that look strong, but don’t actually do anything other than look good.

DEVELOPING A SKILL

The expert-performance assessment is critical for skill evaluation and its potential to be used as a guiding framework for understanding and enhancing a specific skill set, expertise and learning.

This video is an overlay of two separate climbers performing the same move, at the wall angle: